Wednesday, 25 June 2025

Papal Liturgies of the 16th century

At an old blog post, we found the adjacent image of a fresco and a description of the Coronation of the Spanish King Charles as Holy Roman Emperor at Bologna.

The Coronation was performed by Pope Clement VII in the Cathedral of San Petronio, Bologna on 24th February 1530.

The fresco is not painted onto a wall, but on the ceiling of the office of the Mayor of Florence in the Palazzo Vecchio.  It was painted by the artist Giorgio Vasari after 1555.

Vasari's depiction of the Coronation is quite interesting for students of the history of sacred vestments because, since it is painted in the middle of the 16th century, a transitional point from mediaeval to baroque styles is illustrated.

A detail of Vasari's 16th century fresco.

In the detail shewn above, Pope Clement is placing the crown upon the head of the Emperor. We find the Pope vested in a linen albe, with close fitting sleeves and whose skirt is ornamented with an embroidered apparel. It would appear that the cuffs of the albe are enriched in some way. Notice, however, that there is no sign of lace in the Pope's albe. Over the albe, the Pope is wearing an ample golden chasuble. The chasuble is very flowing and partly folded back at the arms. Not unusually, we find the painting does not represent the Pope dressed in full pontificals, since he lacks the tunicle and dalmatic, but most importantly, he is lacking the pallium. An extremely short and narrow maniple is upon the left forearm of the Pope. This is a far-cry from the exaggerated spade-ended maniples of the High Baroque.

Assisting the Pope are two deacons, vested in matching dalmatics which are also quite ample. The dalmatic are ornamented with the clavi, but also an apparel at the upper back (presumably also upon the breast). A roundel upon the apparel appears to be embroidered with IHS. Pendants of tassels hanging from the shoulders of the dalmatic are also depicted, a feature of late mediaeval / early baroque ornamentation. It is believed that such tassels were originally an elaboration of the lacing used to tie together the front and back of the dalmatic at the shoulders. Subsequently, they became purely decorative.

Another detail of Vasari's fresco.

Another detail of Vasari's fresco is shewn above, which depicts some of the bishops present at the Coronation. These bishops are all depicted wearing Mass vestments: amice, albe, cincture, stole, maniple and chasuble. In each case, the amice of the bishops is ornamented with an apparel: a survival of mediaeval usage. Although their albes are unornamented, the close-fitting cuffs appear to be decorated. The four bishops are wearing chasubles which are less ample than the one the Pope is depicted as wearing, but nevertheless appear to be gathered away from the elbows and are long and flowing. Each of the chasubles is decorated with the TAU Cross, which was the usual form of ornament in Italy. The bishop in the centre, with hand raised, also wears a diminutive maniple.

We might also comment on the mitres worn by these bishops, which are more or less identical to each other. They are the simplex mitres worn by non-officiating or concelebrating bishops, just as happens today. These mitres are also in the style of the 15th century (which differed little from that of the 14th century) being neither excessively tall (these ones are approximately 12" tall) nor with rounded sides (a style which became fashionable in Rome in the 16th century and persists to this day).

Although the scene depicted by Vasari is probably not very accurate as a presentation of a Papal Liturgy, nevertheless it undoubtedly depicts the style of vestments used throughout Italy in the 16th century. It demonstrates that Catholic Tradition in the age of the Council of Trent did not include "fiddleback" chasubles, lace albes and excessively tall mitres.  

Click on the images for an enlarged view.

AMDG

Tuesday, 24 June 2025

The Season Per Annum 2025 : 12

Green Gothic vestments


In this post is depicted a set of vestments in a subtle shade of green brocade and ornamented with the Studio's Sancte Deus orphrey braid.  This new braid amongst the Studio's offerings is in the distinctive colours of deep blue and ivory upon a green background. 

These vestments are in one of our Gothic Revival styles which we call Saint Benet.  The chasuble and accessories were lined in a bottle-green taffeta.

The vestments of the Saint Bede Studio are beautiful in design, sound in construction and distinctive in appearance.

Click on the images for an enlarged view.

The Saint Bede Studio

The Saint Bede Studio : vestments made by Catholics for Catholics.

Enquiries : stbede62@gmail.com


Information on placing an order.



Please note that posts on this blog are set-up for optimal viewing via a web-browser, not via a mobile phone.


AMDG

Saturday, 21 June 2025

Red vestments

The Saint Bede Studio is pleased to present a set of vestments made in the Borromeon style for a returning customer in the United States. The vestments were made from a red brocade and fully-lined in copper-coloured taffeta.


Red vestments


The vestments are ornamented with the TAU at the front and a column at the back, these being formed by a brocade in colours of flame-red and gold, outlined with a narrow galloon.


Click on the images for an enlarged view.


Borromeon vestments

The Saint Bede Studio : vestments made by Catholics for Catholics.

Enquiries : stbede62@gmail.com


Red vestments


Information on placing an order.


Please note that posts on this blog are set-up for optimal viewing via a web-browser, not via a mobile phone.

AMDG

Friday, 20 June 2025

The Season Per Annum 2025 : 11

In this season Per Annum the Saint Bede Studio is pleased to present another set of green vestments, in the style we call Borromeon.  The prominent feature of such vestments is the use of the TAU as the ornament of the chasuble front.

The Saint Bede Studio


This set is constructed from handmade dupion silk in a darker shade of olive green, and it is lined in a lovely shade of burgundy taffeta. The ornament is formed from a brocade in colours of red upon gold, which is arranged in columns and outlined in a narrow galloon.  

At the Saint Bede Studio, we strive to avoid the idea that the designation Ordinary Time is a reason to make green vestments which are non-descript, or lacking in inspiration. This is a beautiful and distinctive set of vestments; we believe there is nothing "ordinary" about it.

Click on the images for an enlarged view. 

Enquiries.

Information on placing an order.


Green vestments



Please note that posts on this blog are set-up for viewing via a web-browser, not via a mobile phone.

AMDG 

Wednesday, 18 June 2025

The Season Per Annum resumes

In this Season Per Annum, the Saint Bede Studio is pleased to present a glimpse of another set of green vestments, in the Gothic Revival style.

Green Gothic vestments
This set is constructed from ecclesiastical brocade in a beautiful shade of green, and it is lined in a shade of lemon taffeta. 

The ornament is formed from matching braids, one wider, one narrow, in colours of crimson and straw-gold upon a green background. This is one of the Studio's unique braids called Saint Edmund and is directly based on a design by AWN Pugin.  It features the sacred monogram " IHS ".

At the Saint Bede Studio, we strive to avoid the idea that the designation Ordinary Time is a reason to make green vestments which are non-descript, or lacking in inspiration. Although not elaborate, this is a beautiful and distinctive set of vestments.

Click on the images for an enlarged view. 


The Saint Bede Studio


Information on placing an order.


Please note that posts on this blog are set-up for viewing via a web-browser, not via a mobile phone.

AMDG 

Tuesday, 17 June 2025

Sunday, 15 June 2025

The Most Holy Trinity

The Saint Bede StudioIt is truly fitting and just, right and profitable for our salvation, always and everywhere to give thanks to you, Lord, holy Father, almighty, eternal God. With your only-begotten Son and the Holy Spirit, you are one God, one Lord, not in the singleness of one Person, but in a Trinity of one substance. For, whatever we believe through your revelation about your glory, the same also we believe about your Son and about the Holy Spirit, without distinction or difference. So that in acknowledging the true and eternal Godhead, we adore each individual person and, at the same time, their one substance and their equal majesty: which the Angels, the Archangels, the Cherubim and the Seraphim all praise, never ceasing to cry out with one voice:

Holy, holy, holy is the Lord God of mighty hosts! The heavens and earth are full of your glory. Hosanna in the highest. Bless'd is he who comes in the Lord's name. Hosanna in the highest.

This is the translation of the Preface of the Most Holy Trinity prepared by the Saint Bede Studio for the Order of Mass published by Ignatius Press in 2008.  Copies of this Mass book may be purchased at this link.

The translation and illustration may not be reproduced without prior approval.

AMDG

Thursday, 12 June 2025

Whitsuntide 2025 : 4

In this sacred Octave of Pentecost, we are pleased to present this image of a set of Gothic Revival vestments.  

The set of vestments was made from ecclesiastical brocade in a brighter red and lined in a very muted shade of green.  

The vestments were ornamented with a geometric braid unique to the Saint Bede Studio, which we call Lux aeterna.  It is a geometric braid after the style of AWB Pugin and is woven in the colours of ash-grey upon black.

The work of the Saint Bede Studio is distinctive for its artistic qualities and the pains taken with every detail, such as the alignment of ornaments.  Even a simple vestment like this is striking for its combination of colours and fine workmanship.


Click on the images for an enlarged view.

Red vestments


The Saint Bede Studio : vestments made by Catholics for Catholics.

Enquiries : stbede62@gmail.com



Please note that posts on this blog are set-up for optimal viewing via a web-browser, not via a mobile phone.

AMDG

Wednesday, 11 June 2025

Whitsuntide 2025 : 3

 

Red Gothic vestments

In this blessed Octave of Pentecost, we are pleased to present this image of a set of Gothic Revival vestments.  

The set was made from dupion silk in a fiery-red and lined in a very muted shade of gold.  The vestments were ornamented with a geometric braid unique to the Saint Bede Studio, which we call Salisbury.  It is based on an old design and is woven in the colours of red, burgundy and straw-gold.

The work of the Saint Bede Studio is distinctive for its artistic qualities and the pains taken with every detail, such as the alignment of ornaments.  Even a simple vestment like this is striking for its combination of colours and fine workmanship.


Click on the image for an enlarged view.

The Saint Bede Studio : vestments made by Catholics for Catholics.

Enquiries : stbede62@gmail.com



Please note that posts on this blog are set-up for optimal viewing via a web-browser, not via a mobile phone.

AMDG

Monday, 9 June 2025

Mary Mother of the Church

The Saint Bede Studio
On this beautiful Feast of Mary, Mother of the Church, we are pleased to present these images of a set of Marian vestments.  This is made in a more ample Gothic style which we call Saint Cuthbert.  These vestments were made from dupion silk in an ivory colour and fully-lined in blue taffeta.  Despite their being so ample, they are very lightweight.

The Saint Bede Studio : vestments made by Catholics for Catholics.

The vestments are ornamented with the familiar "Gothic" form of orphrey which is formed from an embroidered braid in two shades of blue, interwoven with gold thread.  Running along either side of this braid is a narrow galloon in a very muted shaded of yellow.

Click on the images for an enlarged view. 


The Saint Bede Studio


The vestments of the Saint Bede Studio are beautiful in design, sound in construction and distinctive in appearance.

Information on placing an order.

Please note that posts on this blog are set-up for viewing via a web-browser, not via a mobile phone.


AMDG